Struggle towards Todmorden

Last week to waste a few days we decided to take a trip up the canal towards Todmorden to see how the work on the various locks was going on.

It was quickly obvious that there was a distinct lack of water in the canal once we had risen through a couple of  locks.  As the boat went through the water the leaves that were lying on the bottom were kicked up by the prop and once or twice one could feel the boat touching bottom.

At the first winding hole just below the lock I was leading and went to the bank to get off and open the locks ready.  I never made it.  Six feet away from the side I was stuck on the mud.  It was Tims turn to drag me off.  We seem to be taking turns to get stuck.

I could feel the prop hitting the mud and as I entered the lock chamber found that ahead and astern had little effect on the boat movement.  When I opened the weedhatch I found a mass of plastic wrapped tightly around the shaft.

The decision was made that it was a waste of time struggling to get any further so at the next winding hole we turned back towards Hebden Bridge.  With the water so low this did take rather a lot longer than usual as one minute the bows were aground and the next it was the stern so just a little further down the canal we stopped for the night.

Going very slow so as not to dig the stern in too much we plodded back the way we came with the steep bank on one side and the river on the other.

The second night (this is a trip that could in normal water levels be done in a day) was spent at a long line of long term moorings just about Stubbing Wharf and the pub.  Quite a nice pub but one of those that nowadays is more of an eating place with bar attached.

Have seen just the one swan in since Castleford.  The view from the window now is that of the Canada Goose.

Hardcastle Crags

The walk starts near the Packhorse Bridge in Hebden Bridge.  This bridge is dated from the early 18th century so is wearing quite well really.  The route follows the River Salam up to the National Park.

The first part of the walk is through the streets at the back the town and these houses must date from the time of the mills.  No one would build a house these days with no garden front or back and the doors opening straight onto the pavement.

A hundred yards and you come to the Old Packhorse bridge.  If the previous one was early 18th century I wonder when this one was built.

Just the river, trees and the footpath.  Very quiet and an easy walk.

But then you come to the steps.  The riverside path was not for the packhorses but these steps are well worn so must be a bit ancient.  Your knees will feel it when you get to the top.

This looks like the old Packhorse way although I doubt if it was metalled in the old days.  The stone walls are covered in moss and the trees have a multitude of lichens.I counted twelve with ease.

The way then goes back down to the valley floor to cross the bridge below.  This is likely to still  be the packhorse way with the cobbles still in place over many yards.

At the bottom is the Blue Pig.  Its a working mens club and it is worth checking the times if you fancy a pint.  I was shut when I walked by.

The bridge is near the end of the walk and the entrance in to the park.  From here there are any number of walks laid out and signposted.

I sat up here for about an hour.  All I could hear was the river below and the bird song. In the two trees in front of me I saw - Robin, Wren, family of Long Tailed Tits, several Blue Tits and a couple of treecreepers.

On the way back there is a sign to Hebden Bridge.  At this point there is a notice that says that for a short part of the walk you are on the road so I turned round and when back up the slope.  A lovely day but could have been better.

That was yesterday.  Today we moved to charge the batteries.  I wish now that we hadn't.  There is little water in the canal after going through a couple of locks and we couldn't turn around so had to press on.  I had to stop at one point and get a bloody great lump of plastic off the prop.  After that I had some problems and I think it has moved the shaft.  Sort it out tomorrow. 

Hebden Bridge

We checked out the Fox and Goose last night.  It would take a twelve month to read all the pump labels from the past that decorate the bar.  Another really friendly pub and dating from the 18th century is well worth the visit and up to the Jolly Miller standards.

This morning I took bit of a walk about the area near the canal.  In the Information Centre I picked up some leaflets and one on a few local walks.  I the next week I am going off to Hardcastle Crags, Hepenstall and Stoodley Pike.  From up near the Pike are some supposed brilliant views back down the valley.

The fact that there are two sheep stood on the side of the canal had no bearing on my picking this mooring. Honest:-) They advise on the lagging of the loft amongst other things.

Just off the canal are a couple of streets from the past.  I can see why Hebden Bridge is used in so many TV programs.

I am moored right outside the Alternative Technology Centre.  It is open most of the time and has recycled any and everything from plastic bottles via paper to old coins redone as jewellery. All the better if you also want to know about solar panels 

The town of Hebden Bridge is divided up with rivers running through and meeting in the middle, the canal going up the valley and railway following the same line.  Many of the buildings still have the old stone tiles on the roof.

The main shop I have found so far is the Co-op which is just round the corner from the mooring.  Lots of others dotted all over the place and still haven't found HSBC to deposit my presents from Ernie.

Mytholmroyd to Hebden Bridge

Leaving Mytholmroyd and the first of the locks come into view.  Its back out into the countryside and there are hills everywhere.

At Broadbottom lock and for some unknown reason there is a carving of a gorilla by the side of the lock. What it is supposed to represent I do not know and I find it hard to come up with a link to the canals.

At bridge 14 there is a road sign saying we are entering Hebden Bridge.  The skew bridge is more of a tunnel really.  It seems longer than the one at Tuel Lock and there is a longer curve going to the right and without lights.  Its no problem if its taken steady.

The other side of the tunnel and the first of the moored boats line the bank all the way in the Hebden Bridge.

Hebden Bridge basin and we stop here to pick up water.  The towpath here has some misleading signs.  The first one says its the start of the 24 hour mooring, the second says strictly no mooring and the last one says that is the end of the 24 hour moorings.  The no mooring sign is only for the winding hole but it doesnt say that.

Moved through the third lock of the day as there is a 48 hour mooring just above it.  A lovely area and we moor up right outside the Alternative Energy Centre.  I shall be having a good look at that tomorrow to pick up tips.

The view from the bows.  Its likely to be the view for some time.

Mytholmroyd and Dydd Gwyl Dewi Hapus Pawb

Mytholmroyd is the birthplace of the English poet Ted Hughes who was born on 17 August 1930 at 1 Aspinal Street. He became the Poet Laureate and married the American poet Sylvia Plath who is buried at nearby Heptonstall. Its population is roughly 4,200.

Mytholmroyd Community Centre hosts the annual Dock Pudding Championships in April, attended in 2007 by Robbie Coltrane who entered the competition and came second. and the Mytholmroyd Gala takes place every July.

During the late 18th century, the valley to the south, known as Cragg Vale was home to a gang of counterfeiters known as the Cragg Coiners. The gang's leader, David Hartley, or King David as he was known, was found guilty of the 1769 murder of excise official William Dighton and was hanged at Tyburn near York, on April 28 1770. Two other gang members were also executed for their part in the murder. 

There are a couple of pubs in Mytholmroyd.  The Dusty Miller which is really a restaurant with a bar attached but you are made very welcome here.  The Shoulder of Mutton is across the bridge and to the left.  Here is a real old style pub and very enjoyable.  Spent an age chatting to a delightful couple about the history of the village and it turned out that the husband was a descendant of one of the coiners of the 18th century. There is a display case with the history of the coiners and some samples of the coiners art.

A new sculpture was unveiled yesterday by the Bishop of Wakefield.  The cone is of iron and has slits in it  which are lit up at night. Around the base are some words from a Ted Hughes poem. 'Moors are a stage for the performance of heaven'. 

The house that Ted Hughes was born and lived in is a terrace further up the hillside.

Wandering around I found a sign to the clog works.  Just a couple of hundred yards from the canal is Walkley Clogs purported to be the largest maker of clogs there is. 

Inside are a number of shelves with the type of clogs you can buy and if there isn't the right one for you it can be hand-made to order and mailed on. While in the shop you can look through into the works and watch the clogs being made.

Back to the mooring and tomorrow it is the delights of Hebden Bridge for us.

Luddenden Foot to Myholmroyd

I had message concerning yesterdays blog from Brian and Diana who are on nb Harnser who saw one of these little cars hocked to the back of a large motor home in France. It was a bit tight backing out, so the driver unhitched it and pushed it like a wheelbarrow. I like it :-)

It was fair sort of day but no rain as yet so bright and early - well actually it was about 1230 when - we cast off but you can't rush these things can you :-

I mentioned before that the bottom of the canal was a bit too close to the top and it was just the other side of the bridge that Tim ran aground. He was in the middle the canal as one does tend to shy away from the banks as this is where shopping trolleys end up. Most likely it just needs more boats to stir things up and keep the silt from settling.  Gave him a tow astern and he was soon free.          

As we travel along the hills that we will have to travel around, over or through are always  sight.

The valley is bottom is never far away as are trees on the other side.

You meet some delightful peoples you go along.  They might not all be of the hitch hiker standard but it is not often one is in a strange village and get called back 30 minutes later to be told that the pub that was recommended was closed down in a drugs bust two weeks previous. :-) But thanks for closing the gates behind us.

The gateway to Mytholmroyd  We were going to visit the White Lion but..... The Dusty Miller is a decent place for a pint and landlord and bar staff happy to chat and tell about the other local pubs.

I found a sign to the Clog Mill.  More on that tomorrow.

Luddenden Foot

As usual I went off for a walk this morning and instantly saw just the car to fit on the bows.  You can see by the wheely bin next to it how big it is.Probably need a tug style boat to make it easier I guess.

A short way down the cut is an overflow that turns the tow path into a ford. 

The fields alongside it, one on either side of the bridge, usually have stock in them.  This one has three rather large Highland Cattle and while they are quite friendly I wouldn't like to be on the wrong side of the horns.

The field on the other side has notices all along it. 'Please Note that any dogs caught worrying stock will be shot'. At least it says Please.  There are plenty of dogs walking along here with few on a lead.  You spend most of your walk with head down looking for the crap left behind.

There is a discussion on at  at the moment concerning the the surfacing of the Rochdale Canal towpath All I can say is that those against it don't do a lot of walking along it. It is a swamp and mostly mud.

Walking up the road towards Luddenden I passed another statue to, I presume, Bramwell Bronte.  He looks a bit of a poser to say the least  The scroll he is holding says 'I came to think - as roses blow'

The railway runs just behind the site of the statue. This looks as though it is the site of the Luddenden Foot station where Bramwell was once Booking Clerk.  All that is left are the two dents in the rock where the platforms would have been and the remains of what might have been a footbridge.

Most of the way up and a view looking back on the mooring and Luddenden Foot. The boats are moored the other side of the playing field.

There is little in Luddenden Foot.  A post office and shop, outdoor and camping shop and one pub.  A quiet mooring.